Textile fabric.



Patented July ll, I899. W. STRANG, In.

TEXTILE FABRIC.

(Application filed July 7, 1898.)

2 Sheets-Sheet I.

(No Model.)

km xix N m k Patented luly ll, ISM.

w. STRANG, .IR. TEXTILE FABRIC. (Application filed July 7, 1898.)

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

/A 7 I V 7 VII ,7 I I 1 l. g r I I wmll wall w I Ilnrrnn \VILLIAM STRANG, JR, OF GLASGOIV, SCOTLAND.

TEXTILE FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 628,867, dated July 11, 18 99.

Application filed July 7, 1898. Serial No, 685,330. (No man To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM STRANG, .Tr., manufacturer, a subject ofthe Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, and a resident of 201 Greenhead street, in the city of Glasgow, Scotland, have invented a new Figured Cloth, (for which I have applied for a patent in Great Britain, No. 1,467, dated January 19, 1898,) of which the following is a specification.

My invention has for its object the production of a new figured cloth in the following manner: For the ground I make any weave suit-able to form the texture desired, such as a plain cloth or a gauze cloth or a combination of plain and gauze cloth. This ground cloth is woven in stripes, each consistingof one thread or two or more threads, as desired, there being an open space between each stripe. In each of these open spaces athread is work ed, hereinafter called the binding-thread, and in con j unction therewith and corresponding to each bindingthread is worked another thread, which is the figuring-thread and is hereinafter called the whip-thread. In, the process of weaving the whip-threads are raised one pick on the right-hand side ofthe bindingthreads and then one pick on the left-hand side of the adjoining binding-thread situated to the left, and so on alternately at each pick. This is done simultaneously with the formation of the ground-shed, so that when the shuttle is thrown it passes and carries the weft underneath the whip threads. In the parts where figuring is to be produced the bindingthreads are held down or allowed to remain down during the passage of the shuttle, and in the parts where no figuring is required the binding-threads are raised along with the whip-threads during the passage of the shuttle. Thus where the binding-threads remain down the shuttle and wef t pass over the hind ing-threads and under the whip-threads, and as on the following pick the whip threads are raised on the opposite side of the ad joining binding-threads the whip-threads are stretched from the one binding-thread to the adjoining binding-thread. There the binding-threads are raised along with the whipthreads, the shuttle and weft pass under both the bindingand Whip threads, which permits the whip-threads to be drawn back to the ground-stripes. WVhere this is done, the whipthreads form part of the ground-stripes and no figure is formed excepting such figure as may constitute the ground-Weave. It will thus be seen that by manipulating the binding-threads any variety of figure may be formed.

In order that my invention may be well understood, I will explain it further with reference to the accompanyingdiagrams, where- 1n Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 show different embodiments of the invention.

In the figures the binding-threads are marked B, the whip-threads \V, and the ground warp-threads G and R. The weft threads or picks are marked 1 to 10.

Fig. 1 is an example of a figured fabric with a plain ground. The weft-threads 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, and 10 illustrate parts at which figuring is effected, and the weft-threads 3, 4,

5, and 0 illustrate parts at which no figuring is effected. The ground warp-threads Gand R can be raised and lowered by healds or harness alternately in the usual way at each successive pick, so as to form the plain groundweave. The binding-threads B can be manipulated independently by healds or by harness. The whip-threads TV can be manipulated by needles fixed in a frame or in frames which rises and falls or rise and fall in front of the beating-up reed. For the weft-picks 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9 the said threads are raised by the needles on the'right-hand side of the binding-threads B, and for the "weft-picks 2, 4:, 6, S, and 10 the said threads are raised by the needles on the left-hand side of the adjoining binding-threads situated to the left. When it is desired to form fig uring, the binding-threads B are held down so that the weft-threads pass over them and between them and the whip or figuring threads, so that V the whip-threads W are caught by the weft-threads l, 2, 7, 8, 9, and 10 and held in the position occupied by the binding-threads B. If for the previous pick the binding-threads B have been raised, then the whip-threads? will be stretched from the left-hand side of the ground-threads G to the right-hand side of the binding-threads B, as is shown between the picks 6 and 7, or they will be stretched from the right-hand side of the ground-threads R to the left-hand side of the binding-threads B,-as shown between the picks 2 and 3; but if for the previous pick the binding-threads B have been held down the whip-threads WV will be stretched from the'left-hand side of the binding-threads B to the right-hand side of the adjoining-binding-threads B, as is shown between the picks 1 and 2 or 7, 8, 9, and 10. When itis desired to form no figuring, the binding-threadsB are raised so that the weft-threads pass under both the binding-threads B and the whipthreads W, so that the whip-threads W are not caught by the weft and the binding threads B, and the whip-threadsW under the tension with which they are woven are drawn back to-the ground-threads G or R.- If for the previous pick the binding-threads B have been held down, the whip-threads \V will be stretched from the binding-threads B to the ground-threads G or R, as before mentioned; but if for the previous pick the bindingthreads B have been raised the whip-threads \V will be turned around the ground-threads G or R, as is shown between the picks 3, 4, 5, and 6. It will thus be seen that by manipulating the binding-threads B figuring or absence of figuring may be formed at will and so the requisite design be produced.

The binding-threads can be manipulated in accordance with the design required by any suitable or known m eth0dsuch as jacquards, dobbies, or the like-as will be apparent to Weavers without further explanation.

In designs where there are longstretches without figuring the binding-threads B, being lifted every pick, would float upon the surface of the cloth too-long to make a satisfactory fabric. This may be obviated by making a single shot of figuring at fixed intervals and so bind these threads to the body of the cloth.

The invention is not limited to any particular Weave of the ground, as any suitable weave can be adopted. For example, Fig. 2 is another example of a plain ground wherein the plain sheds are reversed from Fig. 1, so that when the needles carrying the whip-threads rise on the right-hand side of the bindingthreads B the ground-threads R, situated to the left, are raised instead of being held down, as in Fig. 1, and when the said needles rise on the left-hand side of the binding-threads B the ground-threads G, situated to the right, are raised instead of being held down, as in Fig. 1. The effect of thisis thatwhen no figuring is being made the whip-threads \V are drawn by the tension back to the groundthread (G or R.) situated farthest from the binding-threads B operated upon and the whip-threads F'fioat upon the surface (see picks 3, 4:, 5, and 6) instead of being twined around the ground-threads G and R, as in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is an example of a gauze ground, the ground-threads G and B being twined around one another instead ofbeing worked plain,

' as in Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 4c is an example of a cloth in which one thread constitutes the ground-stripe. The binding-threads Band the whip-threads W are manipulated as in the other illustrations; but theground-threads Gare held down continuously, so that where figuring is being formed the ground-threads G lie between the weft-threads and the whip-threads, as shown in picks l, 2, 7, S, 9, and 10, and where no figuring is being formed the whip-threads W twine around the ground-threads G, as shown in picks 3, 4:, 5, and 6.

In the illustrations given the cloth is shown as being composed of the new weave only; but I may, if desired, weave the new cloth as described in conjunction with other weaves.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that What I claim is- 1. A woven fabric consisting of a series of ground warp-threads, a series of weft or pick threads, a series of binding-threads running parallel to and between the warp-threads, and a series of whip-threads; where figuring is produced, the binding-threads passing under all of the weft-threads, and the whip-threads passing under all of the binding-threads and being looped over the weft-threads first on the right-hand side of one binding-thread and then on the left-hand side of a second bindingthread.

2. A woven fabric consisting of a series of ground warp-threads, a series of weft or pick threads, a series of binding-threads running.

parallel to and between the warp-threads,and a series of whip-threads; where figuring is produced, the binding-threads passing under all of the weft-threads, and the whip-threads passing under all of the binding-threads and being looped over the Weft-threads in succession, first over a weft-thread at the right of a binding-thread and then over a succeeding weft-thread at the left of another bindingthread.

3. A Woven fabric consisting of a series of ground warp-threads, a series of weft or pick threads, a series of binding-threads running parallel to and between the warp-threads, and a series of whip-threads; where figuring is produced, the binding-threads passing under all of the weft-threads, and the whip-threads passing always under the binding and warp threads and being looped over the weft-' threads in succession, first over a weft-thread at the right of a binding-thread, and then over the next succeeding weft-thread at the left of the next binding-thread to the left, and then over the next succeeding weft-thread at right of the first-mentioned binding-thread, and so on. v

4:. A woven figured fabric consisting of a series of ground warp-threads, a series of weftthreads, a series of binding-threads running parallel to and between the warp-threads, and a series of whip-threads; where figuring is produced, the binding-threads passing under all of the Weft-threads and the Whipthrea(ls passing under all of the binding-threads and being looped over the weft-threads in succession, first over a Weft-thread at the right of a binding-thread and then over succeeding weft-thread at the left of another bindingthread located to the left of the first-mentioned binding-thread, and then over a succeeding Weft-thread at the right of the firstmentioned binding-thread and so on; but Where no figuring is produced, the bindingthreads passing over the Weft-threads, and the Whip-threads passing under the warpthreads and over the weft-threads.

5. A Woven figured fabric consisting of a series ofground warp-threads, a series of Weftthreads, a series of binding-threads running parallel to and between the Warp-threads, and a series of Whip-threads; Where figuring is produced the binding-threads passing under all of the Weft-threads, and the Whip-threads passing under all of the binding-threads and being looped over the weft-threads in succession, first over a weft-thread at the right of a bindingthread and then over a succeeding Weft-thread at the left of another bindingthread located to the left of the first mentioned binding-thread, and then over a snoceeding Weft-thread at the right of the firstmentioned binding-thread and so on; but where no figuring is produced, the bindingthreads passing over the weft-threads and the Whip-threads passing under the Warpthreads and beinglooped oversuccessive Weftthreads' alternately at opposite sides of the same Warp thread or threads.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnessesl \VM. STRANG, JR.

Witnesses:

JAMES AROHIBALD LOVE TINDAL, JOHN ORR. 

